Si Satchanalai and Sukhothai: The Forgotten Royal Cities

We visited the beautiful site of Si Satchanalai in December 2011 and again in November 2022.

Less well-known than Sukhothai, it is among the most beautiful archaeological sites in Thailand and is definitely worth a visit.

Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai are closely linked as twin centers of the Sukhothai Kingdom (13th–15th centuries), the first major Thai kingdom. Sukhothai was the political and symbolic capital, where royal authority, administration, and much of the court life were based. Si Satchanalai, located about 50 km north, functioned as a secondary royal city and strategic outpost. It played a key role in religion, craftsmanship (notably ceramics), and defense, and often hosted princes or high-ranking officials.

Architecturally and culturally, the two sites share the same artistic language—lotus-bud chedis, serene Buddha images, and city planning—making Si Satchanalai a quieter but equally authentic counterpart to Sukhothai.

The surrounding area is dotted with very photogenic rice paddies.

In 2011, we also had the pleasure of seeing hundreds of Indian openbills perched in the trees of the surrounding forest. The flight of these large, stork-like birds, with a wingspan of 1.5 meters, is majestic. However, this large colony was quite noisy, and the smell of their droppings was rather overpowering!

Sukhothai

Si Satchanalai Historical Park

Temples

Si Satchanalai Historical Park is a major archaeological site in northern Thailand, located about 50 km north of Sukhothai. It was founded in the 13th century as a secondary royal city of the Sukhothai Kingdom, serving strategic, religious, and administrative functions.

The park preserves the remains of an ancient walled city surrounded by moats, with numerous temples (wat), chedis, Buddha images, and traces of defensive structures. Architecturally, it reflects the same artistic and religious style as Sukhothai, particularly early Thai Buddhist art influenced by Khmer traditions.

After the decline of Sukhothai and the rise of Ayutthaya, Si Satchanalai gradually lost its importance and was abandoned by the 18th century. Today, its forested setting and well-preserved ruins make it one of Thailand’s most atmospheric historical parks, offering a quieter alternative to Sukhothai while providing valuable insight into the origins of the Thai state.

The city was founded in the 13th century, and its history is inextricably linked to that of Sukhothai, both having been founded for military and administrative purposes by the Khmers in the 13th century. It fell out of favor after the rise of Ayutthaya, then suffered attacks from the Burmese and was completely forgotten by the 18th century.

A profound sense of serenity pervades the shaded paths of the park, between the majestic temples and Buddha statues.
Only a few vestiges remain of the imposing ramparts that once surrounded the city, a brick square 800 meters on each side, flanked by wide, 12-meter-deep moats fed by the river.

Sukhothai

Sukhothai Historical Park

Temples

Sukhothai Historical Park preserves the remains of the former capital of the Sukhothai Kingdom, founded in the 13th century and considered the birthplace of the Thai state. The park encompasses dozens of temples, chedis, Buddha images, reservoirs, and remnants of city walls arranged within and around the original urban layout. Its architecture and sculpture illustrate the emergence of a distinct Thai artistic style, combining local traditions with influences from Khmer and Sri Lankan Buddhism. Today, the site offers a clear insight into early Thai political, religious, and urban organization and is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The first capital of Siam and the first independent kingdom of Thailand, from 1238 to 1378, Sukhothai is one of the country’s most beautiful historical sites, founded by two Thai princes who broke free from the authority of the Angkor king.

The empire extended beyond the borders of present-day Thailand, reaching into Laos and Burma, becoming the most powerful nation in Southeast Asia at the time. It reached its zenith under the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng the Great (1279-1298), to whom the invention of the Thai alphabet and the establishment of Theravada Buddhism, at the expense of the Hindu and Mahayana influences of Angkor, are attributed. Another notable difference from the Khmer kingdom was that the king was perceived as a father figure to his people, approachable and just.

This period gave rise to a unique artistic style, often considered the most graceful of Thai art (walking Buddha, temples, ceramics).
Sukhothai was eclipsed by the Ayutthaya kingdom and became its vassal before being absorbed in 1438. It was then abandoned for four centuries before being rediscovered by Prince Mongkut (the future Rama IV) and restored in the 1970s and 80s, and designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991.

We visited Sukhothai in December 2011 and again in December 2022. The Sukhothai site is very beautiful and vast. Renting a bicycle is helpful. The Buddhas and temples are reflected in the lotus-filled ponds.