Last weekend, our family embarked on a trip from Bangkok to Buriram for the 100-day merit-making ceremony of Khun Kru La-or Srisila, the aunt of my wife, Kwan, held 100 days after her passing. It was an opportunity not only to pay respects but also to reconnect with Kwan’s extended family in the region where she spent a significant part of her childhood.
During her early years, Kwan lived with Aunt La-or and her husband in Buriram for several years. While attending high school in a boarding school in the area, she would often visit them, and they played an important role in her upbringing.
Both Aunt La-or and her husband dedicated their careers to education, working for the Ministry of Education as teachers before becoming school directors. They were instrumental in the construction and leadership of a new school in the Satuek district (Buriram region), which they directed until their retirement. Kwan’s father, her younger brother, also followed the same path, working as a school teacher.
The title “Khun Kru” is a respectful way to refer to her — “Khun” being an honorific, and “Kru” meaning teacher — a form of address used by her students and colleagues. Within the family, we called her “Phra Or”, meaning Aunt in Thai and “Or” being the diminutive of “La-or”.
A Funeral Honoring a Life of Service
Aunt La-or’s funeral took place in early December in that same temple we would come back to, the same where her husband was cremated several years ago. As for her husband’s funeral which we attended, her funeral, like that of her husband several years ago, was a formal and dignified affair, reflecting her high-ranking position within the Thai Ministry of Education. In Thailand, all civil servants wear official uniforms during ceremonies, and it was striking to see many of her former colleagues in their white formal uniforms, adorned with medals and decorations similar in appearance to military insignia. These honors represent years of dedicated service and are proudly worn by officials across various ministries, not just the military.
The ceremonial setting was ornate and deeply symbolic. A beautifully crafted royal cremation urn (Phra Kos) stood at the center, surrounded by tiered ceremonial objects (Krueang Sueang) and floral arrangements, signifying the royal and official honors she received. These items, brought to the ceremony by royal officers, are only used in funerals of individuals who have earned royal recognition or distinguished civil service status, and they were respectfully retrieved following the rites.
The funeral also followed important Buddhist traditions, which form the spiritual foundation of Thai funerals. A group of 13 monks led the chanting ceremonies, offering prayers and blessings to guide Aunt La-or’s spirit towards peace and a favorable rebirth. Buddhist chants and rituals are essential in Thai funerals, symbolizing merit-making and the family’s support for the deceased in the afterlife.
Adding to the solemnity of the funeral, a traditional funeral band performed during the cremation, with percussions and the Thai flute (pi), a custom reserved for individuals of notable public service. Aunt La-or was also honored by the scout group she had long been associated with, acknowledging her role in guiding and mentoring Thai youth through education and extracurricular leadership.
The 100-day merit-making ceremony, held three months after her passing, was a simpler, more intimate affair with close family members. It also involved a monk-led ceremony, with prayers and offerings made to honor Aunt La-or and to make merit on her behalf. In Thai Buddhism, the 100-day mark is significant as it marks the end of the traditional mourning period and is believed to help the spirit find peace and move on from the earthly realm.
The Drive to Buriram — A Stop in Korat
We left Bangkok on Thursday late evening, knowing the full drive to Buriram would take around six hours. To make the journey easier with the kids, we broke it up with a night stop in Korat, finding a hotel to rest before continuing the next morning. Korat, or Nakhon Ratchasima, is about halfway to Buriram and provided a good pause before the more rural part of the journey.
Lunch and temple visit in Satuek
By midday Friday, we reached Satuek district, just north of Buriram city, not far from the airport. There, we met Kwan’s family for lunch at a small local restaurant lost in the middle of nowhere, right beside a large pond inhabited by geese. We were the only customers, and the peaceful, rustic setting, complete with thatched-roof huts and a fishing boat resting on the pond’s edge, made it feel like a secret spot known only to locals. The meal was a feast of Isaan dishes—papaya salad (som tam), grilled chicken, laab, fried fish, and hot soups in traditional charcoal pots.
Later that day, we visited the Buddhist temple where preparations for the next morning’s ceremony were underway. Like most Buddhist temples in Thailand, it serves as a community hub and includes several distinct areas: a ceremony hall for religious rites, a cremation building, monks’ accommodations, a kitchen for preparing offerings and communal meals, and a section with chedis (stupas) or small shrines that house the ashes of the deceased — functioning much like a cemetery. Temples are typically open to the public, allowing anyone to enter, pay respects, or simply find a quiet place for reflection. This particular temple is simple, not particularly ornate, but it’s spacious and active, with a school and children’s playground on the grounds, reflecting its role at the heart of the local community.
Honoring Aunt La-or: The 100-Day Ceremony
The next morning was the 100-day merit-making ceremony for Khun Kru La-or Srisila. The event was held in the dedicated hall, decorated with flowers, drapes, and framed photos of Aunt La-or and her husband, Khun Pho Director Amnat Srisila.
The banner above the altar read:
งานบุญ 100 วัน คุณครูละออ ศรีศิลา พร้อมทั้งฉลองเปลี่ยนโกศบรรจุอัฐิ คุณพ่อ ผอ.อำนาจ ศรีศิลา
(100-day merit-making ceremony for Khun Kru La-or Srisila and a ceremony to replace the urn for Khun Pho Director Amnat Srisila)
Hosted by the family and the Association of Thai Amulet Experts, Buriram Province.
At the center stands a cabinet containing sacred items, the urns of the deceased, surrounded by floral arrangements and offering baskets prepared for the monks.
After the ceremony, we joined the family for shared meals, prepared by a team of cooks assigned to handle the food—a common practice for such events. As is often the case in Thailand, especially at Buddhist temples, much of the time was spent gathered around tables, eating and talking. Food is a central part of the experience, not just for sustenance but as a way to connect.
The monk-led ceremony followed the usual pattern, with Sanskrit chants filling the hall—some of which the attendees would repeat in unison. To be honest, I couldn’t really tell the difference between this and a daily temple ceremony, and, more generally, I often don’t fully understand what’s happening during these rituals. Still, there’s an atmosphere of calm and reverence and even without grasping every detail, the sense of tradition and respect for those who came before us is inherently part of Thai culture.
After lunch, we returned to Bangkok but actually stopped for the Staurday night in Khao Yai, as we do often to cut the long way in half. We tried a resort which name I had noticed a few times and we were not disappointed, it’s really a great little place.
A charming and peaceful hotel located right on the border of Khao Yai National Park, offering spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and lush greenery. With only 8 duplex-style rooms, it provides an intimate, low-key atmosphere, perfect for a quiet getaway close to nature.
The property is set within a beautifully maintained park that feels almost like a private estate, surrounded by modern, architect-designed holiday homes that appear to belong to some very affluent families. Despite this upscale setting, The Pig House maintains a relaxed and welcoming vibe, with a strong connection to the natural environment.
The grounds are landscaped, filled with colorful flowers, fluttering butterflies, tranquil ponds, there is even an area where ducks roam freely, adding to the serene and almost storybook-like ambiance. It’s a place where you can truly unwind, take in the mountain air, and enjoy the peaceful beauty of Khao Yai.
