As friends with children came to visit us from France, we accompanied them on a 10-day trip to the southwest of Thailand, specifically in the Krabi and Phang Nga regions.
Flying directly from Bangkok to Krabi, we had a 40-minute minivan ride to the Ao Nam Mao pier, followed by a 15-minute longtail boat trip to the beach resort we had chosen—aptly named Sand Sea Resort, located on Railay Beach, Krabi.
Railay Beach is a stunning and secluded peninsula in Krabi, accessible only by boat due to its dramatic limestone cliffs. It’s renowned as one of the most beautiful beach areas in Thailand, offering impressive scenery with towering limestone peaks, clear turquoise waters, and a relaxed atmosphere. Railay comprises several beaches, including the main Railay Beach, Phra Nang Beach (known for its beauty), and a mangrove beach. The area is characterized by its lack of road access, creating a unique and walkable paradise. It’s a popular destination for rock climbing, relaxation, and enjoying the natural beauty of the Andaman coast.
I’ve been lucky to visit Railay a few times before, and to me, it’s one of the most beautiful beach areas in Thailand. I wasn’t disappointed this time, even though we came during one of the busiest weeks of the year. Resort prices surged, and so did the number of visitors. I believe Railay was fully booked, which has a unique implication, as it’s a secluded peninsula cut off from the mainland by rocky promontories forming a wall of small peaks and cliffs. There’s no road access—only boats. No cars, few motorbikes, and none for rent. These features are part of Railay’s charm: the stunning limestone peaks and its isolation, making it a walkable paradise.
There are three beaches. The one you usually arrive at has mangrove trees—less suitable for swimming but still charming. The main beach, Railay Beach, is the largest, offering impressive views. Just look at the photos—I didn’t take thousands; you can snap one and it’s guaranteed to look good when the scenery is this beautiful. The third beach, Phra Nang Beach, is a bit harder to reach. It’s mainly part of the Rayavadee Resort but accessible with a 15-minute walk around the hotel perimeter. Phra Nang is essentially a paradise beach with breathtaking views of limestone cliffs rising from the sea and transparent turquoise water.
We were lucky to stay at Rayavadee during the COVID period—a truly paradisiacal experience I still hesitate to write about, as it felt too good to be true. We had the place almost to ourselves. Of course, that wasn’t the case this year, with tourism in full swing in early 2025. I heard that Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport recorded a record number of arrivals in January 2025.
Of course, a crowded place has its downsides—mainly for breakfasts and dining, with beaches being quite packed—but it was still bearable. Railay’s beauty speaks for itself. The resort was nice, and the wildlife is impressive: two species of monkeys are commonly seen, as well as huge hornbill birds, which resemble toucans. That alone is a highlight. I also love the rustic setting of the main village lane connecting both beaches—a pedestrian path with small restaurants, shops, and massage parlors, all laid-back with a pirate island vibe.
Some new resorts have opened or been renovated—I didn’t recognize some areas from previous visits—but overall, what I saw was quite nice. The back area of Railay Princess Resort and Spa with its pool and pond is lovely. Kwan visited their open-air spa next to the pond, which was quite high-end. Macaques and birds were everywhere.
We had a whole group of Spectacled Langurs (Dusky Leaf Monkeys) jumping on our bungalow roofs—a rare species in Krabi. They’re beautiful: black and grey, with long white tails and white rings around their eyes. Long-tailed Macaques are more common, and we also spotted lots of Grey-bellied Squirrels, which make loud, amusing sounds—possibly mating or alert calls.
Sand Sea Resort is a beach resort located on Railay Beach in Krabi. It offers a direct beach setting with lush gardens, traditional wooden bungalows. The resort spans both beaches, about 500 meters apart, with three swimming pools—one on each side and one in the middle (Pool #2), which I’d recommend for swimming. We stayed near the eastern mangrove beach in large, traditional wooden bungalows with comfortable beds and spacious bathrooms. The garden setting is lush with trees, palms, and wildlife. It’s directly on the beach. The restaurant, however, was disappointing—expensive, halal (so no beer), and the staff overwhelmed. We only ate lunch there once. Breakfast was just passable for a 3-star. At 5,000 THB/night during high season, it was pricey for the experience, but I’d still recommend it for the beautiful garden setting.
We got a minivan directly from the airport to Sand Sea Resort, and at high tide, the longtail boat drops you right at the lobby.
We spent three great nights there. Railay always feels timeless—the incredible beach, everything walkable—it’s a unique experience. After Railay, we left for Krabi town for lunch at Ruen Mai Restaurant.
Ruen Mai offers authentic Southern Thai cuisine in a peaceful, natural setting surrounded by palm trees and limestone cliffs. Its open-air bamboo structure and rustic décor create a tranquil atmosphere. The menu features Southern specialties like crab curry with betel leaves and stir-fried melinjo leaves with egg. Excellent food and beautiful scenery—a recommended spot in Krabi.
Our next destination was Khao Lak, about 3 hours away and just an hour north of Phuket. It has evolved into an upscale alternative to Phuket, offering large resorts and luxury hotels along quieter beaches. It attracts travelers seeking a peaceful experience compared to Phuket’s crowded scene. It was my first time there, and despite the rainy weather (which is unusual for the season), I enjoyed it. Still, it felt overly touristy—not authentic at all. The whole area seems purpose-built for tourists, without any original village or community.
We arrived during heavy rain and, unfortunately, at a terrible hotel with the worst rooms ever—not worth mentioning. It was in southern Khao Lak. I’d recommend Ocean Breeze Resort Khaolak, a Greek-island-style 3-star resort where we had a great seafood barbecue dinner. Rooms looked nice.
I’d also suggest staying in the northern part, around Bang Niang, which has a night market and more to do. After two nights, we moved to The Waters Khao Lak—it has seven pools and over 100 rooms with direct pool access. Not beachfront, though.
After two nights, we moved to The Waters Khao Lak—it has seven pools and over 100 rooms with direct pool access. Not beachfront, though.
The Waters Khao Lak is a resort located in Khao Lak, known for its extensive pool facilities. It features multiple swimming pools, with many rooms offering direct pool access. While not a beachfront property, the beach beach is walking distance and it provides a modern and pool-centric accommodation option in the Khao Lak area.
La Vela Khao Lak and La Flora Khao Lak are two excellent 4-star beachfront hotels. We visited Kokulo Beach Club at La Vela—great Thai and Western food, and drinks were reasonably priced (3 Chang beers for the price of 2—280 THB).
Kokulo Beach Club (La Vela Khao Lak) We visited Kokulo Beach Club at La Vela—great Thai and Western food, and drinks were reasonably priced (3 Chang beers for the price of 2—280 THB).
Kokulo Beach Club is a beachfront establishment located at La Vela Khao Lak in Khao Lak. It offers a combination of Thai and Western food, along with drinks at reasonable prices. It provides a relaxed beach club atmosphere, suitable for families and those looking for a place to dine and enjoy the beachfront setting.
Hotel prices in Khao Lak were absurd during high season—5,000-6,000 THB/night, compared to 2,000-3,000 THB just a month later. My friends had no choice but to come during school holidays, but I’d recommend avoiding February—everything’s packed and overpriced. Hotels were literally full, and we struggled to switch after our bad experience with the first one.
We rented a minivan for 10 people for half a day at 2,500 THB—much cheaper than activities priced at 2-3K per adult. We visited a small waterfall (nothing special, but kids could swim), the Sea Turtle Conservation Center, and had lunch at a seafood restaurant in a nearby fishing village. The conservation center, run by the Thai Navy, is worth it—100 THB per adult to see turtles at all life stages, from hatchlings to 1-meter-long turtles.
The Sea Turtle Conservation Center in Khao Lak is run by the Thai Navy. It provides an opportunity to observe sea turtles at various life stages, from hatchlings to larger turtles. It’s an educational and worthwhile visit for those interested in marine conservation. 100 THB per adult to see turtles at all life stages, from hatchlings to 1-meter-long turtles.
A local floating seafood restaurant in a fisherman’s village 15 km south of Khao Lak. It’s not touristy and offers fresh seafood directly from the Andaman Sea, including fish sashimi. Very few tourists, mainly Thai locals. The view over a small lagoon and mangrove was lovely. With better weather, a boat trip would have been nice.
The next day, we organized a day trip to Phang Nga Bay ourselves. Tour agencies overcharge, so we arranged directly with a longtail boat operator (3,000 THB) and a minivan (2,800 THB). Private transport for a fraction of agent prices. The driver was great, sharing insights about local agriculture—rubber plantations being replaced by oil palm due to better yields, and a rise in durian farming, with each fruit selling for 500-1,000 THB.
The park occupies a large portion of the bay between Phang Nga, Phuket and Krabi, until the Koh Yao Noi and Yai island, with a large mangrove forest area and a myriad of small islands. Known for its dramatic limestone karsts rising from the sea. It offers breathtaking scenery and is a popular destination for boat trips and exploring the unique geological formations. Famous spots within the bay include the James Bond Island and Koh Panyi, a floating village.
Phang Nga Bay is stunning, even under cloudy skies. We skipped James Bond Island—too crowded during high season—and this finally meant we avoided the 300 THB national park fee (dual pricing at its best as it’s 60 THB for locals). It’s famous for a 20m limestone pinnacle featured in the 1974 James Bond movie The Man with the Golden Gun. The spot is iconic but overcrowded—a bit of a tourist trap.
We also skipped sea cave kayaking – a bit crowded, though it’s probably nice, they even have guides to paddle for you.
Our last stop was Koh Panyi, a floating Muslim village on stilts against a limestone cliff. Sadly, it’s changed a lot since I first visited 15 years ago. It used to be a quiet fishing village—now a major tourist stop full of buffet restaurants and souvenir shops. It’s lost its charm but is still a unique place to see. We remembered eating freshly caught fish from a small place—now it’s all mass tourism. Understandable, as locals now earn more from tourism, they overbuilt chaotically the village on stilts, now there’s a huge mosque, also a school and floating football field, but the whole place is a mess and lost a lot of charm though it’s still a must visit.
After we went back to the pier where our minivan was waiting for us, it started raining as we were heading to the nearby Samet Nangshe Viewpoint, but we didn’t stop—raining heavily and foggy, no visibility. Too bad, it looks awesome in photos. It’s also an area that starts to be heavily affected by tourism, with fancy resorts and cafes being built to enjoy the view.
We returned to Khao Lak, the kids enjoyed the pool and the beach, played in the waves as the sea was still a bit rough. That night, we had a nice dinner at Kokulo Beach Club—a beachfront restaurant with a club vibe (though mainly families). After a clouded-out sunset, we lit sky lanterns purchased from a vendor on the beach. It’s always a nice shared moment and an unusual experience for the kids.
The next destination of our trip would be Khao Sok National Park, and it turned out to be great, it’s also a place I had never been and I can now say it’s unique in Thailand. After leaving Khao Lak, we took a private minivan for the 2.5-hour drive inland, heading into the jungle-covered mountains of Surat Thani Province. The change of scenery was drastic, still towering limestone cliffs, but in lush greenery.
The configuration of the area is a bit strange as main area where you find guesthouses is near the park HQ, it’s South-West and quite far from the lake, much closer to the Khao Lak beaches than the real entrance of the lake which is on the Eastern side of the lake. We stayed three days in Khao Sok, with one night spent on Cheow Lan Lake in a floating bungalow. Our first and last nights were in a lodge with treehouses, in the middle of nowhere.
The place is nestled in the forest, surrounded by dense vegetation and the sounds of nature—crickets, frogs, and the occasional monkey. It was peaceful and a welcome change from the busy beaches. The drawback was that it was very far from any activity, or even a restaurant. The lodge offered really basic accommodation, a bit too basic, but the treehouse aspect was still quite charming. We had to eat there the first evening and the restaurant is also very basic, and closing at 8pm. To be frank I would not recommend this resort. The Our Jungle Camp resort, with whom we did the 2 days trip on the lake, had much nicer accommodation, also jungle style. Rock And Treehouse Resort and Thanyamundra Organic Resort looked like nicer options, but more expensive.
The following day, we started the 2 days/1 night trip which would bring us to sleep on the Cheow Lan Lake, we set out early and had a stop first for a jungle trek half an hour from the resort. We jumped from the minivan to a 4×4 pick up truck that brought us on a dirt road deep in the park’s jungle, where we then had an easy trek on a forest path including some parts going through caves where we saw a lot of bats from a close distance.
After a lunch in the forest lodge, the minivan then took us to Ratchaprapha Dam Pier, about 1 hour away, where we boarded a traditional longtail boat. The boat ride on the lake was nice: emerald waters, dramatic limestone karsts rising vertically from the water. This 185-sq.-km lake is actually artificial, and created by Rajjaprabha Dam built in 1987. It felt like entering a prehistoric world untouched by time. The water in the lake is very deep, and very transparent, can be turquoise, or maybe blue – it all depends on how sunny the day is. The boat ride to our bungalows was quite long, you are really brought in a very wild area far from any town.
A natural area in southern Thailand, known for its lush rainforests, dramatic limestone karsts, and the Cheow Lan Lake (artificially created by the Ratchaprapha Dam built in 1987). The park offers a diverse range of experiences, from jungle trekking and wildlife spotting to relaxing on the serene waters of the lake. Cheow Lan Lake, an artificial lake within the park, is a major highlight, featuring emerald waters and towering limestone formations that create a breathtaking landscape. Visitors can stay in floating bungalows on the lake, explore by boat, and enjoy activities like kayaking and wildlife viewing. Khao Sok National Park provides an immersive nature experience, contrasting with the coastal areas of Thailand.
The following day, we set out early for Cheow Lan Lake. The minivan took us to Ratchaprapha Dam Pier, about 1 hour away, where we boarded a traditional longtail boat. The boat ride on the lake was nice: emerald waters, dramatic limestone karsts rising vertically from the water. This 185-sq.-km lake is actually artificial, and created by Rajjaprabha Dam built in 1987. It felt like entering a prehistoric world untouched by time. The water in the lake is very deep, and very transparent, can be turquoise, or maybe blue – it all depends on how sunny the day is. The boat ride to our bungalows was quite long, you are really brought in a very wild area far from any town.
Our floating bungalows at Kee Ree Warin Resort were simple but comfortable, set on wooden rafts right in the middle of the lake. No internet, no phone signal—just nature all around. Each bungalow had a private deck with direct access to the lake, perfect for swimming or just relaxing and soaking in the scenery. The kids spent hours jumping into the water and kayaking around, totally immersed in the experience.
For a more luxury experience, I heard if 500Rai Floating Resort, which is actually very close to where we stayed, and seems to have great rooms and restaurant, for a high price of course (12,000-15,000 THB for 2 days/1 night all included).
We had cloudy skies on the way to the resort, which added a bit of mystery to the landscape, but once we arrived, the weather cleared, and we enjoyed bright blue skies for the rest of our stay—perfect for exploring and simply soaking in the lake’s beauty. That night, the sky was exceptionally clear, and we were treated to a stunning display of stars, with no light pollution—just the vast night sky above the still water.
That evening, we went out on a night safari, a peaceful longtail boat ride through narrow, fjord-like inlets of the lake. The boat moved slowly to avoid noise, and the setting sun combined with the calm waters created a truly magical atmosphere. During the ride, we spotted a Gaur bull grazing at the water’s edge—a real highlight. Seeing a Gaur in the wild was something I had really hoped for (along with elephants). It’s the largest species of wild cattle in the world—massive and powerful, like a super muscular cow—and yet surprisingly hard to spot in the wild. We also saw a gibbon high up in the trees and caught sight of a few hornbills gliding across the sky.
Then we had a communal Thai dinner at the floating restaurant, which was OK though a bit bland, to be expected considering how remote we were. The night was silent, except for the sounds of the jungle in the distance and the gentle lapping of the water against the bungalows.
The next morning, we woke up early for another boat safari. The stillness of the lake at sunrise, with mist rising from the water and the light changing on the cliffs, was unreal. We saw monitor lizards and various birds, including hornbills again and kingfishers. Wildlife is not guaranteed, but the atmosphere alone is worth it. We had a guide with us all the time, but he was honestly not really communicative, though he helped to spot animals we wouldn’t have noticed.
After breakfast, we went around with the kayaks and enjoyed swimming again, then had an early lunch on the floating restaurant before returning to the pier, which was a great trip back on the lake with beautiful blue skies. From there, our driver took us back to the resort for one more night in Khao Sok. We ended our stay with a massage nearby, then we had dinner in town.
Khao Sok is an authentic and immersive experience, a place where nature takes center stage and the pace slows down completely. It’s not a convenient destination, it’s quite a trip to get to your floating bungalow, but for those who want to experience something truly different, it’s well worth the effort.
Our 10-day journey through South-West Thailand offered a rich tapestry of experiences—from the stunning beaches of Railay to the more tranquil ambiance of Khao Lak, the breathtaking landscapes of Phang Nga Bay, and the immersive natural beauty of Khao Sok National Park. Each destination showcased the diversity and natural wonders of this region of Thailand. The weather wasn’t great overall, but that’s rarely a real issue in Thailand—cloudy skies often mean less heat and a lower risk of sunburn. It was actually quite unusual to have this kind of weather in February, which is peak high season, but sometimes it even helped, as it wasn’t overwhelmingly crowded.
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