Bangkok is a city of contrasts, where tradition and modernity intertwine in unexpected ways. One of the best places to experience this juxtaposition is On Nut, a neighborhood that has transformed from a quiet residential area into a thriving urban hub. At the heart of this transformation is the Phra Khanong canal, a waterway that has long been a vital artery for local communities. While new developments rise along its banks, the canal still retains a glimpse of old Bangkok, with wooden houses, bustling markets, and boat transport persisting alongside high-rise condos and trendy restaurants. This article explores how On Nut and the Phra Khanong canal embody the evolving character of Bangkok, blending history with progress in a way that is uniquely Thai.
On Nut: Where Tradition Meets Modernity
On Nut, a neighborhood often overlooked by tourists, is a prime example of the juxtaposition of the old and the new which coexist in Bangkok in a dynamic, ever-evolving urban landscape. Once considered ‘too far’ from the city center, On Nut has undergone rapid development while retaining much of its local charm. The BTS Sukhumvit Line ensures easy access to Bangkok’s key districts, making it an increasingly popular place for expats and locals alike.
Despite its modern high-rises and shopping centers, On Nut remains a neighborhood steeped in tradition. The bustling street markets, old family-run eateries, and quiet sois (side streets) offer a glimpse into Bangkok’s past, even as trendy cafés and craft beer bars establish themselves in the area.
Searching for a Home in Bangkok
My journey to On Nut began with a house hunt—an experience that revealed just how complex Bangkok’s urban landscape is. Unlike many cities with a single, well-defined center, Bangkok has multiple hubs. Our office in Thonglor and our previous home in Phrom Phong were both centrally located along Sukhumvit Road, making them prime spots for business and entertainment. However, finding a house with a garden in these areas was nearly impossible without paying an exorbitant price.
Housing projects in Bangkok tend to be located further from central Sukhumvit, requiring long commutes—especially during rush hour. After an extensive search, we found a newly developed project called “Classe,” situated on the other side of the Phra Khanong canal. Previously inaccessible, the land became viable for development thanks to the construction of a bridge connecting it to On Nut. This development reflects a broader trend in Bangkok: new infrastructure reshaping previously overlooked neighborhoods.
Now, we live in a house right next to the Phra Khanong canal, just a five-minute drive from On Nut BTS. The canal, historically a major transportation route, offers a unique perspective on Bangkok’s evolution, blending past and present in a single, fluid space.
The Legacy of Sukhumvit Road
Sukhumvit Road, one of the longest roads in Thailand, stretches over 300 miles from Bangkok to near the Cambodian border. It’s a key artery of the city, divided into three sections: Lower Sukhumvit (Soi 1–24), Mid Sukhumvit (Soi 24–45), and Upper Sukhumvit, which includes On Nut and extends past Bang Na.
The On Nut BTS station once marked the end of the Skytrain line. For years, the district remained underdeveloped, home to traditional Thai houses, local restaurants, and small businesses. Even as urbanization spreads, On Nut retains a laid-back atmosphere compared to the central Sukhumvit area.
The Phra Khanong Canal: A Glimpse into Old Bangkok
The Phra Khanong canal (or Khlong Phra Khanong) is a lifeline of the neighborhood, offering a rare look at Bangkok’s traditional waterways. Bangkok was once known as the “Venice of the East” due to its extensive canal system. While many of these canals have been filled in to make way for roads, Phra Khanong remains an active waterway. Most of the houses boarding the canal actually have no road access, they depend on the canal, and its boats to bring in everything such as groceries.
The canal serves as both a historical and practical feature of the district. Inexpensive long-tail ferry boats transport residents along its length, connecting Phra Khanong Market to Iam Sombat Market. Some small wooden boats are available for a few bahts to cross it on several spots where bridges lack. The canal’s banks are lined with a mix of old wooden houses, temples, and modern condominiums, reflecting the rapid transformation of the area.
A Hidden Route to Explore
From our housing project, we can walk under the bridge to access the concrete walkways running along the canal (only usable by motorbikes and bicycles). This path provides a direct connection to the water, offering a peaceful escape from Bangkok’s busy streets. On several occasions, we have hired a local taxi boat driver to take us on a slow journey through the canal, enjoying the sights of the old riverside communities. The route back and fourth to the Iam Sombat Market takes a bit more than half an hour gliding slowely on the water.The experience is a hidden gem—far from the typical tourist paths, yet deeply rooted in Bangkok’s history.
Historic and Cultural Landmarks Along the Canal
Several significant temples and religious sites can be found along the Phra Khanong canal, each with its own story:
Wat Mahabut – Famous for the Mae Nak Shrine, dedicated to the legendary ghost of Mae Nak Phra Khanong.
Wat Tai – A serene temple offering insight into Buddhist practices.
Wat Thong Nai, Wat Yang, and Wat Ton Sai – Lesser-known temples that add to the historical fabric of the area, the first one offering pet cremation services.
Al-Kubro Mosque and Aliatisorm Mosque – Reflecting the dense Muslim population along the canal.
San Chao – A Chinese shrine that showcases the multicultural heritage of the neighborhood.
Each of these sites contributes to the rich cultural tapestry of On Nut and Phra Khanong, where tradition persists alongside modernization.
The Muslim population in the area appears to be steadily growing though, shaping the cultural landscape of the upper part of the canal as homogeneous culturally, with visible influences such as hijabs and Arabic signage becoming more prominent, gradually overshadowing traditional Thai elements. The Iam Sombat Market is actually a halal market. Unfortunately, the mosques can be quite noisy during prayer times, with full on loudspeakers for the prayer call that we can even hear (barely though) in our garden. It must be horrible when you are living next door though.
A Community in Transition
The Phra Khanong canal remains a vital part of daily life for many residents. Some still travel by boat, using the canal for transport and trade. It’s not uncommon to see fishermen casting their nets or vendors making deliveries via the waterways.
At the same time, new condominiums rise along the banks, offering modern amenities to an increasing number of expats and middle-class Thais moving to the area. The contrast is striking—wooden houses on stilts sit beside gleaming glass towers, embodying the ever-changing nature of Bangkok.
Final Thoughts
Living in On Nut has given me a deeper appreciation for the city’s evolving character. While high-rises and modern developments continue to reshape the neighborhood, the Phra Khanong canal stands as a reminder of Bangkok’s past. It’s a place where old and new exist in harmony, offering a unique perspective on life in this dynamic metropolis.
For those looking to experience a different side of Bangkok, On Nut and the Phra Khanong canal provide an intriguing mix of history, culture, and urban development. Whether by foot, bike, or boat, exploring this district reveals the ever-changing story of the city—one that bridges tradition and progress in unexpected ways.
