Benoit Schneider

Bangkok, often characterized by its bustling streets, heavy traffic, and towering skyscrapers, may seem an unlikely place for wildlife exploration. However, the city’s modern urban landscape intertwines seamlessly with residential neighborhoods, vibrant markets, and tranquil parks. These contemporary structures are scattered like a patchwork across the expansive city, intersected by the Chao Phraya River and complemented by the verdant “green lung” of Phra Pradeng. As an amateur herpetologist who has lived in Bangkok for several years, I have come to appreciate this urban environment as a thriving habitat for a diverse array of wildlife. The city’s hidden ecosystems, particularly its reptiles and amphibians, can be found lurking in the khlongs (canals), gardens, and green spaces, at night particularly, revealing a fascinating tapestry of life within this bustling metropolis.

Snakes: A Lifelong interest

My fascination with snakes began in my childhood, fueled by visits to zoos and adventures in the wild. These captivating creatures, with their graceful movements, dragon-like features and remarkable adaptations, intrigued me in a way that few other animals could. The fear they instill in many humans only added to their allure. My interest was further ignited when I befriended Rob, an Englishman who has lived in Bangkok for decades and is a seasoned herpetologist. He took me on nocturnal excursions in Bangkok, immersing me in the mesmerizing world of snakes. Rob organizes herping tours in Bangkok and nearby natural parks, inviting enthusiasts and curious explorers to discover this captivating realm.

What is Herping?

Herpetology, the study of amphibians and reptiles, derives its name from the Greek word “herpeton,” meaning “creeping.” Herping typically involves nighttime excursions armed with torchlights, as most reptiles and amphibians are nocturnal. These explorations reveal a world often unseen during the day, though this focus means diurnal creatures remain elusive. While herping is primarily centered on reptiles and amphibians, enthusiasts often encounter other nocturnal wildlife such as bats, owls, spiders, and even small mammals.

To go herping is, at its core, a simple yet exciting activity. It usually involves taking a walk at night, often along canals, through parks, or in other green spaces where snakes and amphibians are likely to be found. Torchlights are essential tools, allowing herpers to scan the darkness for the reflective scales or glowing eyes of their quarry. A keen eye, particularly trained to spot subtle movements or well-camouflaged animals, is invaluable. Rob, for instance, has an exceptional knack for this, often able to spot green snakes hidden in foliage from remarkable distances. Once a snake is found, the goal is usually to photograph it in its natural habitat. This sometimes involves carefully lifting the snake with a hook to position it for a better angle, ensuring both the safety of the herper and the animal. Herping combines patience, skill, and an appreciation for the natural world, offering a glimpse into a hidden side of wildlife rarely seen by most people.

Bangkok: A Surprising Hub for Urban Wildlife

Despite its urban development, Bangkok is home to a remarkable variety of wildlife. The city’s canals, parks, and green spaces provide habitats for numerous snake species, making it an outstanding destination for herpetology enthusiasts. Notable areas for exploration include:

Ban Kachao (Bangkok’s Green Lung): Known for its lush greenery and tranquil atmosphere, Ban Kachao is a haven for wildlife enthusiasts. This area offers a serene escape from the city’s chaos and is one of the best places to spot snakes in their natural habitat.
Pratthanakan Canals: This relatively wild area along the city’s khlongs (canals) provides excellent conditions for herping, with a variety of snakes frequently spotted.
Makkasan Wild Forest: Although now under threat of development, this untouched plot of land is right in the middle of busy avenues, a few minutes from the Asoke intersection, the airport link and high rise condominiums, and has long been a refuge for urban wildlife. On a given night, it’s possible to see dozens of snakes there.
Benjakitti and Other Large Parks: Bangkok’s expansive parks, such as Benjakitti Park, are home to a surprising diversity of species, making them great spots for herping closer to the city center.

In general, areas with canals and surrounding vegetation are likely to harbor snakes. For the best herping experience, it’s advisable to stroll along the concrete paths that usually run alongside these canals. This elevated position provides an excellent vantage point for observing the wildlife below. There are such paths walking distance to my house along the Phra Khanong canals, and in an evening we can spot several species of snakes (Vipers, Pipe Snakes, Mud Snakes), frogs, geckos, monitor lizards and also a lot of bats (large flying foxes) and some night birds.

The Herping Residents of Bangkok

Thailand boasts hundreds of reptile species, but Bangkok itself is home to a more limited yet diverse selection. The few times I went out herping at night we mostly saw Pit Vipers, Vine Snakes and aquatic snakes, during the day Golden Tree Snakes are common and sometimes Rat Snakes. Larger venomous snakes are very rare, Pythons a bit more common.

I took some of the photos below while herping, some are from Rob and others from https://www.thainationalparks.com/.

Snakes

This species of snakes are mostly nocturnal, particularly in Bangkok.

Golden Tree Snake (Chrysopelea ornata, 1-1.2 meter): Bright green with black crossbands and yellow markings, this mildly venomous snake is known for its ability to glide between trees. It preys on geckos and small birds and is frequently seen in urban parks and gardens all over Thailand.

Oriental Vine Snake (Ahaetulla prasina, 1.2-1.5 meters): A slender, bright green snake with an elongated pointy head, often camouflaged in foliage. It hunts frogs and lizards and is harmless to humans.

Green Pit Vipers (Trimeresurus macrops and Trimeresurus albolabris, 0.6-0.8m): Bangkok hosts two species of these vivid green venomous snakes, they are short but thicker than most snakes, with a triangle head that’s larger than their body. They are very common in Bangkok and come out at night, they are often found coiled in foliage, relying on their camouflage to hunt at night. The one below is a large-eyed (macrops) which are 10 times more common than the white-lipped (albolabris) but both are very similar.

Pythons: Two species of pythons, including the Reticulated Python (Python reticulatus, 3-5m), inhabit Bangkok. These non-venomous constrictors are the largest snake in the world yet largely harmless to humans when undisturbed, though they are strong and their bite can be painful. The Burmese Python (Python bivittatus, 3-4m), another python species with different motifs, is less commonly encountered in central Bangkok.

Oriental Rat Snake (Ptyas mucosa, 1.5-2m): A large, non-venomous snake that can grow up to 2 meters in length. It is commonly found in urban and rural areas, feeding primarily on rodents, thus playing a beneficial role in controlling pest populations. It’s very common in Bangkok and often mistaken for a cobra as it’s the same size and color (when brown, but they can also be greenish or gray).

Monocled Cobra (Naja kaouthia, 1.2-1.5 meters): Highly venomous, with a distinctive circular or “monocle-like” marking on the hood. It’s very rare in Bangkok, but can be seen at the Cobra Temple on Rama II where some are living and are fed.

Banded krait (Bungarus fasciatus, 2m): The most venomous snake in Thailand, but this species is generally considered timid and docile and it very rarely bites humans. It is easily identified by its alternate black and yellow crossbands all of which encircle the body.

Jodi’s Pipe Snake (Cylindrophis jodiae, 0.8m): A non-venomous snake found in muddy or waterlogged areas, typically in khlongs, it hunts small amphibians and fish.

Cox’s Mud Snake (Homalopsis mereljcoxi, 0.6-1m): A medium-sized, non-venomous snake with a distinctive dark brown or black body adorned with lighter, irregular bands or blotches, sometimes redish, also found in canals and near the river. Known in Thai as งูหัวกะโหลก (ngu hua galok ), which translates to “skull-headed snake”, likely refers to the distinctive markings on its head that resemble a skull.

Rainbow Water Snake (Enhydris enhydris, 0.6-0.8m): A small, glossy snake with iridescent scales that give it a “rainbow” sheen in sunlight. Commonly found in muddy or waterlogged areas.

Other Reptiles and Amphibians

Monitor Lizards (Varanus salvator): Very common in Bangkok’s khlongs and parks, these large reptiles can grow up to 2-3 meters long. They are often seen swimming or basking near water.
Lizards and geckos: Bangkok is home to a variety of smaller lizard species, many of which thrive in urban environments, like the Common House Gecko (Hemidactylus frenatus), the larger Tokay Gecko (Gekko gecko) that can reach 40cm and has a specific “to-kay” call and Oriental garden lizard (Calotes versicolor).
Turtles: Bangkok is home to freshwater turtles like the Asian Leaf Turtle (Cyclemys dentata), commonly found in ponds and canals.
Frogs: Frogs such as the Asian Common Toad (Duttaphrynus melanostictus) and various tree frog species are often heard calling during the rainy season.

Tips for Aspiring Herpetologists

Herping in Bangkok is both rewarding and accessible for amateurs and experts alike. Here are some tips for a successful outing:

Go at Night: Most snakes and other herping wildlife are nocturnal. A powerful flashlight and a good pair of boots are essential.
Learn to Spot Movement: Many snakes rely on camouflage, so patience and keen observation are key.
Respect Wildlife: Admire from a distance and avoid handling snakes, especially venomous ones like pit vipers.
Join a Tour: Consider joining an experienced herpetologist to maximize your chances of encountering diverse species safely.

Don’t expect to see many snakes when you herp in Bangkok, this activity requires some patience, and you can be satisfied when you come across 3 or 4 different species during an outing. In a few hours, it’s unlikely not to see any snake though, but sometimes you see mostly of one specie.

Bangkok’s hidden wild side offers opportunities to discover nature even in the heart of an urban landscape. Whether an experienced herper or a curious novice, the city’s green spaces, canals, and parks promise thrilling encounters with its reptilian residents. With careful observation and respect for the natural world, herping in Bangkok can be a rewarding experience for anyone interested by the creeping, slithering species of the animal kingdom.