Exploring Tokyo, Hakone, and Mount Fuji: A Short Japanese Adventure

Here are some highlights from our short but unforgettable trip to Tokyo and Mount Fuji. Kwan and I crafted a 5-day itinerary that worked out perfectly, even though we skipped a few planned visits in Tokyo due to feeling a bit tired upon arrival. Despite this, the trip offered the perfect blend of cultural exploration, delicious food, and stunning natural landscapes. We tried to experience every kind of Japanese food possible, one at a time as most restaurants focus on one kind of food, with isakayas being the lively evening taverns to get snacks and drinks.

Day 1: Arrival in Tokyo

We arrived in Tokyo late on November 21st, the immigration went quickly, it’s all automated, we collected our luggages and hopped on a taxi right away, it was nearly midnight when we checked into the Meguroholic Hotel. The room was small, 16 sqm, but at least more livable than the one we had experienced in Osaka 5 years earlier. Tokyo, an enormous modern city, can feel like an anthill at times, with bustling streets and countless small restaurants and cafés. However, its parks and quieter districts provide welcome escapes from the dense urban environment. Our location next to Meguro station was great, it was just 25 minutes taxi drive from Haneda Airport (we paid a bit more to arrive there instead of Narita International Airport which is 1h30 from the city center), and on the Yamanote metro line, which is very convenient to go around as it’s a circle going through Shibuta, Shinjuku and Tokio stations, puting us 15-20 minutes max from these destinations. We picked up a Suica card at Meguro Station, a universal card usable for all types of transport (5000 yes each, including 500 yen deposit was enough for the whole trip).

Day 2: Exploring Tokyo’s Iconic Sights

We began our Tokyo adventure at Meiji Jingu (just 4 stations away), which is a real forest with huge trees in the middle of the city, and has a Shinto shrine dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji and his wife. There, we where we were lucky to witness a traditional wedding ceremony. The nearby Meiji Jingu Imperial Garden offered a peaceful retreat with it’s autumn colors foliage, though it must also be very nice in spring when flowers bloom.

We then walked out of the park and ventured into the streets of shopping districts Takeshita and Omotesando. Takeshita Street is a narrow pedestrian lanes bustling with quirky shops (such as funky costumes and goth apparel), colorful fashion boutiques, and trendy food stalls. It’s a hub for teens and street fashion enthusiasts and those seeking unique, eclectic finds. Just a short distance away lies Omotesando, often called Tokyo’s Champs-Élysées, with its tree-lined avenues and upscale atmosphere.

In Omotesando, we initially planned to eat at a recommended gyūkatsu restaurant (wagyu beef cutlet), but upon arriving, we were met with a long queue. After asking, we realized the wait time would be nearly an hour, so we decided to explore further. Just a short walk away, we stumbled upon a similar style restaurant, also tucked underground down a small stairway, which turned out to be a delightful alternative, without the long wait.

We continued our walk to Shibuya through Cat Street, a charming pedestrian street lined with trendy boutiques and small cafés. We stopped at a cozy coffee shop to rest and enjoy the vibrant yet laid-back atmosphere of this fashionable area. Arriving in Shibuya, one of Tokyo’s most iconic and bustling districts, we experienced the famous Scramble Crossing, a chaotic intersection where hundreds of people cross in multiple directions with every light change. Nearby, we walked pass the beloved Hachiko statue, a tribute to the loyal Akita dog known for waiting daily at Shibuya Station for his owner even years after his death—a symbol of devotion.

We were quite tired from all the walking and decided to return to our hotel for a brief rest, which was very convenient thanks to the Yamanote metro line, the only line we took that day. Feeling refreshed, we then headed to Shinjuku, another modern district bustling with shops and restaurant lights. Interesting to see, but all the modern areas tend to look alike, it’s similar to Shibuya or the Dotonbori district in Osaka, and we didn’t have any shopping to do. We were greeted though by the towering Godzilla head perched atop a building, adding a playful touch to the district’s urban skyline.

An interesting area nearby we walked through is Golden Gai, a maze of narrow alleys filled with tiny bars, most accommodating fewer than 10 people, each with its own uniqueness. We stopped at a local joint to enjoy a craft beer before heading to a sushi dinner. The small restaurant, tucked inside a building and discovered via Google Maps, had an entrance we wouldn’t have found without the help of a local. It seated barely 12 guests, and the sushi was meticulously handmade by an experienced chef.

After traveling back to Meguro, we still had the curiosity to visit a lively izakaya near our hotel. The venue was quite large, accommodating around 50 people, but it was packed and entirely devoid of tourists. Despite the crowd, a waitress managed to find us two seats at the bar, where we could watch the cooks grilling gyoza and skewers. It was wonderful to soak in the energetic and convivial atmosphere of Tokyo’s nightlife while enjoying a local favorite, a “sour”—whisky with soda water. I opted for a grapefruit flavor, though there were many options available, including yuzu.

Day 3: Hidden Gems and Electric Bike Adventures

The day began with a peaceful walk along the Meguro River, a charming area lined with cherry trees and picturesque scenery. Though famous for its cherry blossoms in spring, the river still offered a tranquil escape in late autumn, with a refreshing atmosphere that set a calm tone for the morning.

After our walk, we visited the Kyu Asakura House, a beautifully preserved wooden building that dates back to 1919. This traditional residence, surrounded by a serene garden, provided a glimpse into Japan’s past, offering a stark contrast to the modernity of Tokyo. Walking through its tatami-matted rooms and admiring the elegant architecture and beautiful garden was like stepping back in time.

One of the day’s highlights was exploring quiet neighborhoods on electric bikes (rented through the Luup app), which allowed us to discover hidden gems and charming backstreets that we might never have come across otherwise. This eco-friendly ride was both fun and practical, giving us a different perspective on Tokyo’s diverse urban landscape. The sky was blue and the sun bright, but it still was cold for us Bangkokians.

We made our way to the Nezu Museum, renowned for its collection of East Asian art and its stunning garden. The museum itself is quickly visited, with a few nice buddhist statues. The highlight was the garden, a tranquil oasis with winding paths, small ponds, and lush foliage, was particularly serene in the autumn season. It was a perfect spot to pause and take in Tokyo’s understated natural beauty.

For lunch, we headed to the Asakusa area and dined at an okonomiyaki and monjayaki restaurant, famous for its savory pancakes. We were already late with what I had planned and arrived around 2pm, hungry, but we had to wait for half an hour in a queue to get inside. Anyway most restaurants had a queue, and the experience was worth it. Watching the staff cook the dishes on the teppan (grill) in front of us was a treat in itself, and the variety of ingredients and flavors made for a satisfying meal. Okonomiyai is a pancake made with a batter mixed with cabbage and various toppings, we chose beef. Monjayaki is a bit the same but more liquid, with pork, shrimps, squid, and vegetables, and is topped with bonito flakes (very finely cut dried fish).

In the afternoon, we visited Senso-ji, Tokyo’s oldest and most iconic temple, which was very crowded with groups of tourists and Japanese alike as it was the week-end. The vibrant Nakamise shopping street leading up to the temple was bustling with activity, offering souvenirs, traditional snacks, and a lively atmosphere. Many people dress up with traditional clothing in this historic area. The temple itself, with its grand red gate and historic charm, is a must-see for anyone visiting Tokyo, but we should maybe have come here early morning or late evening instead.

For dinner, we returned to Meguro and indulged in a yakiniki (grilled wagyu beef meal) at a small, cozy restaurant typical of Japan. The restaurant, like many in our hotel’s vicinity, accommodated only a few people, creating an intimate and authentic dining experience. We cooked the wagyu ourselves on a personal grill, accompanied by side dishes like kimchi, bean sprouts, and pickled vegetables. The atmosphere was lively yet relaxed, and the staff very welcoming. They even came out on the street to greet us when we left.

After dinner, we continued our evening with a drink at a small cozy Italian-themed restaurant, a narrow room with the bar occupying most of the space, where we also enjoyed a delicious tiramisu for dessert (not a Japanese specialty, though the waiter made it sound like it).

Day 4: Hakone and the Ryokan Experience

After spending two days in Tokyo, we planned a two-day loop to explore the Hakone and Mount Fuji areas, set in the mountains to the west of the city. From Shinjuku Station, we took the Romancecar, a direct and comfortable train to Odawara. Upon arrival, we picked up our rental car from a Toyota Rent-a-Car shop conveniently located next to the station. Renting a car in Odawara was a much easier option than navigating the busy streets of central Tokyo, and the train ride was quite scenic and taking only about an hour.

Navigating Shinjuku Station, the most crowded train station in the world, was initially daunting. With so many lines and platforms, I wondered how we would find the right gate. Thankfully, Google Maps made it straightforward, providing step-by-step directions to the platform. Before such tools existed, navigating this labyrinthine station must have been overwhelming, especially for non-Japanese speakers. While station and line names are translated into Latin characters, they often don’t make much sense to outsiders and can be quite long. I had booked reserved seat tickets online in advance but realized the day before that these were only “additional tickets” for seat reservations, and we still needed to pay the base fare using our Suica card, which wasn’t a problem. An alternative for travelers is the Hakone Free Pass, which allows unlimited access to transport options in the region, including buses, cable cars, and even sightseeing boats. However, since we had a car, the pass wasn’t necessary for us.

Hakone offers a mix of culture and natural beauty. Our first stop was the Hakone Checkpoint (Hakone Sekisho), a historical site along the old Tōkaidō Road, which once connected Kyoto and Edo (modern-day Tokyo). The checkpoint was a critical control station during the Edo period, where travelers had to present permits to pass through. It has been reconstructed, and walking through it feels like stepping into the past. The small museum onsite provided fascinating insights into the lives of travelers and officials during that era.

Next, we visited a few of Hakone’s shrines, each offering a peaceful and spiritual atmosphere against the dramatic mountain backdrop. These included traditional torii gates, scenic walking paths, and forested surroundings that added to their serene charm. Although we missed Owakudani, a popular volcanic valley known for its hot springs and sulfur vents, as there was a long queue of cars to get there (it was a Sunday, and the parking was full it seems), we were still able to see the volcanic fumes rising from the mountains as we drove down into the Hakone town. The sight added an element of raw natural power to the scenic landscape, reminding us of the region’s geothermal activity.

Instead we decided to visit to the Hakone Museum of Art. While the museum itself houses a small collection of ancient ceramics and artifacts, the real treasure lies outside: the Shinsenkyo Garden. This beautifully landscaped moss garden, surrounded by vibrant autumn leaves, provided a tranquil escape. Its winding paths, stone lanterns, and serene atmosphere made it one of the most memorable spots of the day.

The highlight of our day was staying at a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn known for its emphasis on hospitality and cultural immersion. The one we chose had only 7 rooms and was located a bit outside of town (which is anyway super quiet). Our room was furnished with tatami mats and sliding paper doors, creating an authentic ambiance. There also was a low wooden table frame covered by a heavy blanket, with a heating element attached underneath. You sit on the floor around it, tucking your legs under the blanket to stay warm and cozy.

For dinner, we enjoyed a kaiseki meal at the ryokan, a multi-course feast showcasing seasonal ingredients and meticulous presentation. Each dish was served in small portions, ranging from hors d’oeuvres to sashimi, flavorful soups and grilled items. The artistry in the plating was just as impressive as the flavors. The experience was further enriched by wearing yukata (light kimonos), which added to the traditional charm of the evening. After dinner, we headed to the onsen (a natural hot spring bath), which we had booked as a private session just for the two of us. Soaking in the warm, mineral-rich waters was rejuvenating, offering the perfect way to unwind after a full day of exploring.

Day 5: Mount Fuji and Scenic Beauty

The day began with a delightful kaiseki breakfast at the ryokan, a perfect continuation of the traditional Japanese experience we had the night before. The breakfast featured an array of beautifully presented dishes, including grilled fish, miso soup, pickled vegetables, and tofu.

Our first stop was the nearby Hakone Botanical Garden of Wetlands, a tranquil space showcasing the diverse flora of the area’s marshlands. The pathways winding through the garden allowed us to take in the beauty of the grass fields, vibrant with the warm hues of late autumn. The fresh mountain air and peaceful setting made for a relaxing start to the day.

As we drove toward Mount Fuji, we paused at Fujimi Café, a charming spot renowned for its panoramic views of Japan’s iconic peak. Thanks to the crystal-clear skies that morning, we were treated to a breathtaking sight of Mount Fuji, its snow-capped summit gleaming in the sunlight. Sipping our coffee while admiring this majestic view was a moment of serenity.

Continuing our journey, we visited the shores of Lake Yamanaka, one of the Fuji Five Lakes. The beach offered a stunning perspective of Mount Fuji. The quiet atmosphere and scenic surroundings made it an idyllic place to pause and appreciate the natural beauty of the region.

The next stop was to the Oshino Hakkai village, a collection of traditional ponds and springs, it was somewhat overshadowed by the large crowds of tourists, particularly groups arriving in buses. The charm of the picturesque setting, with its clear waters and traditional thatched-roof houses, was dampened by the noise and congestion, making it difficult to fully appreciate the site.

We had lunch in a soba noodle restaurant nestled in a traditional mountain house. The rustic ambiance, with its wooden beams and warm lighting, made for a peaceful and authentic experience. The soba noodles were freshly made, but we were not really convinced by the cold noodle concept.

Then we went to the Chureito Pagoda which was also quite crowded with foreign tourists, we had to wait for 15 minutes to park, but we could not miss it as it’s an iconic photo spot that perfectly frames Mount Fuji against a backdrop of vibrant autumn leaves. The pagoda is perched on a hillside, the view from the top was absolutely worth it.

Despite the brisk November cold, especially noticeable for us as visitors from Bangkok, the warmth of the autumn colors and the cool blue skies makes this season a great choice to visit the area.

The evening was spent at a hotel in Fujiyama, which featured an outdoor onsen. With temperatures dropping to less than 10 degrees Celsius in the evening and even reaching zero overnight, soaking in the steaming 40-degree waters was a great experience. This time, the onsen was separated by gender, but I had the entire place to myself, making it all the more peaceful and relaxing. I’m a fan of onsen in general, I regularly go to some in Bangkok.

Day 6: Return to Tokyo and Musical Finale

As we drove back to Odawara to return the car, the weather turned cloudy, and light rain accompanied our journey. We actually arrived late to the station and instead of the RomanceCar we actually just took a normal metro back to Tokyo, it actually only took 10 minutes more, so 1 hour 10 minutes. I had chosen an hotel near the Hamamatsuchō Station, which was convenient to get the direct Monorail to Haneda airport the next day. We walked around the area which is more of a business district, visiting the Zōjō-ji temple.

While Kwan went to do some shopping in Tokio station, my trip concluded with a thrilling finale: a festival with concerts by Progressive Metal bands I’ve admired for over 20 years—Pain of Salvation, Cynic, and Textures. The venue, Ex Theater Roppongi, had exceptional acoustics and the bands’ powerful performances made this a night to remember.

This short trip to Tokyo was a perfect blend of culture, cuisine, and nature. From riding electric bikes through hidden streets to basking in the majestic views of Mount Fuji, and from indulging in authentic Japanese cuisine to soaking in the vibrant energy of Tokyo’s streets, every moment was special. November’s autumn colors added to the charm, making this an unforgettable journey.