A Journey to Japan: Kyoto, Osaka, and Nara

In March 2019, my wife Kwan and I embarked on a short trip to Japan while my parents took care of our infant daughter in Bangkok. The journey was mostly filled with cultural discoveries and enjoying the local cuisine. Over five nights, we explored the historical town of Kyoto, the bustling dense urbanism of Osaka, and the serene charm of Nara’s greenery. Here’s a look back at this adventure.

Day 1: Arrival in Osaka and Dinner in Kyoto’s Gion

We landed in Osaka Kansai airport on March 22 and immediately boarded a train to Kyoto where we spent the first 2 nights, eager to begin our journey in Japan’s cultural heart. The region encompassing Osaka, Kyoto, Nara, and Kobe forms a seamlessly interconnected megalopolis, with an extensive transportation network. Traveling between these cities feels like taking a subway, as travels in between take under an hour.

We arrived at our hotel in Kyoto (Kyoto Takasegawa Bettei), a modern hotel but quite authentic with tatami flooring and cypress wood bathtubs, which was great for taking hot baths after a day out in the cold weather.

We had dinner in the Gion district, Kyoto’s famous entertainment area. Under the glow of lanterns, we enjoyed a dinner in a isakaya restaurant (a casual bar also offering shareable small plates of various food such as skewers, sashimi, gyozas), immersing ourselves in the charm of Kyoto’s historical feel.

Day 2: Exploring Kyoto’s Temples and a Night at Toji

The next morning, we visited Tofukuji Temple, renowned for its zen gardens and tranquil atmosphere. The serenity continued at Otani Hombyo, a lesser-known but equally captivating Buddhist site. Renting bicycles for the day turned out to be a great idea, as Kyoto’s calm and bike-friendly streets made for enjoyable rides.

For lunch, we indulged in a kaiseki meal in a small restaurant for only a dozen guests, it’s a multi-course gastronomic tradition, with each dish showcasing a typical kind of Japanese food reflecting the season’s finest ingredients.

In the afternoon, we wandered through Kodaji Temple and the iconic Kiyomizu-dera, perched on a hillside with panoramic views of Kyoto.

As the sun set, we ventured to Toji Temple, where the pagoda was illuminated in the night sky. The magical ambiance was unforgettable. Dinner brought us to a lively teppanyaki restaurant for okonomiyaki, a savory Japanese pancake cooked to perfection before our eyes.

Day 3: Kyoto’s Gardens and Shrines, and Arrival in Osaka

Our morning began with a stroll through the expansive Kyoto Gyoen National Garden, a peaceful retreat filled with blooming flowers and meandering paths.

We then visited Shimogamo-jinja Shrine, one of Kyoto’s oldest shrines, surrounded by an ancient forest that exuded a sacred calm. After a leisurely afternoon in Gion, we boarded a train to Osaka, ready for the next leg of our journey. The Osaka hotel, while modern and clean, wasn’t as nice as the one in Kyoto. The room was extremely small, barely 12 square meters, and felt like a shoebox. We couldn’t even leave our luggage open, as we had to constantly close it and store it behind the entrance door. Expensive and tiny hotel rooms are definitely one of the drawbacks of traveling in Japan.

Day 4: Discovering Osaka’s Urban Vibes

March 25 was dedicated to Osaka’s highlights. We started at Osaka Castle, a historic landmark surrounded by a beautiful park. The castle’s grandeur was a striking contrast to the modern skyline.

In the afternoon, we explored Shinsaibashi-Suji Shopping Street, a bustling area teeming with shops, and the vibrant Dotonbori district, a lively hub of neon lights, street food, and energy. The lively energy of Osaka was palpable as we wandered through its colorful streets.

Day 5: A Day Trip to Nara

On March 26, we took a day trip to nearby Nara, a city steeped in history as it was the first capital of Japan (710–794), before the capital moved to Kyoto in the Heian period and later to Tokyo during the Edo period. Nara was just a metro ride away from our hotel in Osaka. We rented electric bicycles directly from the station. We began in the charming Naramachi Historic District, with its preserved Edo-period buildings and quaint shops. The Naramachi Nigiwai-no-le, a traditional house museum, gave us a glimpse into life in old Japan.

At Nara Park, we encountered the famous friendly deer that roam freely, adding a touch of whimsy to the day. We visited the Todai-ji Temple, home to a massive bronze Buddha statue, and the ethereal Kasuga-Taisha Shrine, adorned with hundreds of lanterns.

Back in Osaka, we ended the day with a sumptuous sushi dinner, savoring the freshness and artistry of Japanese cuisine.

Day 6: Farewell in Osaka

Our final day was spent exploring Osaka’s streets, and we treated ourselves to yakiniku grilled Kobe beef, a fitting finale to our culinary journey.

Japan is undoubtedly a fascinating country to explore, with its rich culture, natural beauty, and iconic landmarks. However, much of what is presented as the essence of Japan is concentrated in select, localized attractions like temples, shrines, and scenic spots, giving visitors an idealized version of the country. In reality, the majority of Japan’s urban landscape reflects the harsh reality of its geography: over 100 million people packed into the limited flatlands between mountains. This urban sprawl results in dense, often monotonous neighborhoods with tiny, cramped homes, narrow streets, and an overwhelming sense of crowdedness. While everything is impressively clean and meticulously organized, the sheer uniformity and lack of space can feel oppressive, painting a picture that’s far from the serene and idyllic Japan often portrayed abroad. Our experience after only three days in Osaka in a tiny hotel room was fine but eventually started to be tiring, it’s easy to imagine why many Japanese might feel depressed in the long run, especially during the cold, gray months of the year.

While I felt I had to warn readers about the idealized version of the country, this trip was a great experience, a blend of cultural discovery, gastronomic delights, and quality time together. Japan’s unique blend of tradition and modernity left us an indelible impression. For such a short visit, focusing on the Osaka area was a great idea, as there was already so much to see. Traveling from March 22–27, we arrived just at the beginning of cherry blossom season. While we didn’t catch them in full bloom, we were still able to enjoy some beautiful blossoms along the way.