That year, during the week between Christmas and New Year, we made the decision to visit Koh Mak instead of nearby Koh Chang where we’ve been often. Koh Mak is a smaller island located slightly further away. Situated on the eastern seaboard of Thailand, on the eastern side of the Gulf of Thailand, it resides in the southernmost Trat province, bordering Cambodia. To make the car journey more manageable, we broke it into two parts. On the way to our destination, we took a break in Chanthaburi province, exploring the Khung Kraben lagoon and slept on the beach. On our return journey, we visited Chanthaburi town and slept a night in the same hotel on the beach.
This trip was a special family time, with my parents joining us, and it turned out to be a wonderful experience. Koh Mak pleasantly surprised us with its tranquillity, featuring almost no car traffic, winding roads, and a serene atmosphere. Our stops in Chanthaburi were equally engaging, adding depth to our journey and making it less tiring.
Mangrove, lagoon and seafood haven
Most tourists just pass by the Chanthaburi province to reach Koh Chang and the other islands around, but it’s actually a very pleasant stop, and even in the highest of the high season, it was still relaxed and uncrowded. We left Bangkok early in order not to arrive late and be able to visit the area around the hotel, which was on the gulf beach just a bit south of Khung Kraben Bay, a nearly closed lagoon which is an ecologically rich area known for its mangrove forests. The lagoon is a peaceful spot where you can appreciate the scenic beauty and observe diverse bird species.
Chao Lao is actually a picturesque beach, with pristine sandy shores and clear waters. Mainland beaches are often not as appealing as those on the islands, but Chao Lao stands out as an exception. It features a handful of relatively new beachfront restaurants with plastic chairs set directly in the sand, creating a charming setting for a seafood dinner. The region is famous for its seafood, particularly its fish, crab, and shrimp farms (also for fruit orchards too, particularly durian and rambutan). Thailand is globally recognized as a leading exporter of shrimp and crab meat. Naturally, we indulged in several seafood dining experiences and visited a fish farm, where we purchased some crabs on our way back.
A must see when passing by, this facility is dedicated to the research and development of sustainable aquaculture practices, particularly in the cultivation of marine species. Basically it’s a long pier with netted areas in the sea where different species of fish can be seen. You can buy some buckets of small fish to feed them and it’s quite impressive as you have huge groupers and some shark species that jump out to eat. It also explains how crabs are farmed and a squid oriented restaurant.
The southern side of Khung Kraben Bay is designated as a protected area, housing a thriving mangrove forest. One notable feature is the beautifully constructed mangrove forest walk, which I would consider one of the finest mangrove boardwalks I’ve experienced. To start, the diversity of mangrove species here is impressive. The boardwalk itself is in impeccable condition and thoughtfully integrates with the mangrove environment, even encircling some of the larger trunks. Additionally, the walk is predominantly shaded by the lush foliage above, making it a comfortable journey. Along the way, you’ll come across informative signboards in both Thai and English, elucidating the reforestation efforts in this area and the vital role that mangroves play in sustaining the coastal ecosystem.
This tranquil resort offers cozy, well-equipped rooms and cottages, in a charming large garden. The newer rooms with balconies are better than the old wooden cottages. The hotel has a good swimming pool next to the breakfast area. No room has a seaview, but the sea is just a short walk away.
A simple beach club with good Thai seafood, with live bands and in very lively in the evening, with fire shows too. The beauty of the beach and the sunset facing makes everything. Price are very reasonable, especially when compared to similar venues on touristic islands.
A week on a tranquil island
We traveled for 3 hours from Bangkok the previous day, leaving us with 1 hour and 40 minutes until we reached the Laem Ngop pier, where boats depart for Koh Mak. I had made reservations for the speedboat several months in advance, shortly after booking the resort. Given that it was the last week of the year, it’s the highest season and it was imperative to secure accommodations ahead of time if you wished to have the freedom to select a pleasant spot. I booked directly to the Leelawadee speedboat website to make a prepayment and selected the earliest departure at 10:30, cross-referencing this choice with another website that lists all boats traveling to Koh Mak. About a month prior to our trip, I received an email notification informing us that only the 14:00 speedboat would be in operation that day. Fortunately, it didn’t disrupt our plans. We leisurely checked out of the hotel, enjoyed lunch at an unassuming Thai seafood eatery right by the seafront near the pier.
Koh Mak isn’t accessible from the same pier as Koh Chang; it’s in the same area though, just a 5-minute ride beyond. Unlike Koh Chang, which has ferries you can board you car on for the 20 minutes crossing, Koh Mak is reached by speedboats. Consequently, we left our car on the mainland for the duration of our 5-night stay. The supervised car park was affordable, costing around 20 THB per day. Having the freedom to drive to your hotel and around Koh Chang is advantageous, but the absence of cars on Koh Mak contributes to its unique charm. There might be a ferry or two per week, mainly used by resorts for transporting provisions. This means you can explore the island safely on a motorbike, creating a wonderfully peaceful atmosphere.
The boat ride lasted an hour, and we arrived at a concrete pier on Ao Kao Beach under a vibrant blue sky, greeted by the idyllic blue waters. It’s the pier of Makathanee Resort which some friends also recommended (but it was full for our dates). The resort we had chosen, Lazy Day The Resort, arranged for a car to pick us up. We loaded our luggage into the back of a Songthaew, a type of vehicle common throughout Thailand, featuring two bench seats under a covered section, typically in the back of a pickup truck. In just a few minutes, we reached the resort. The island’s roads are narrow and made of concrete, primarily designed for single-car traffic. To access the resort, you travel along a private 500-meter road through natural surroundings, a coconut groves and then palm trees on each side, immediately immersing you in the island’s greenery ambiance.
Fantastic beachfront resort, a gem nestled in the heart of nature. Nothing luxury, no swimming pool, but reasonably price at 2500 THB/night (in high season). It stands alone, without any neighboring resorts behind or next door, boasting its very own private beach. The simple yet clean concrete bungalows, painted in a crisp white hue, exude a Mediterranean charm, and are well separated from each other. Some bungalows are equipped with additional beds for kids, and all of them are air-conditioned. The resort is spacious and, while it doesn’t offer an abundance of facilities, this is actually a plus. It features a restaurant/lobby in the rear where we enjoyed the complimentary breakfast and had lunch sometimes, which, as expected, was a bit on the pricey side. Thai massages can also be arranged for those seeking relaxation.
The resort’s primary attraction is its private beach, providing a breathtaking view of the sunset. The beach is perfect for swimming, boasting clear waters with a comfortable depth (depends on the season and tides, like on every island beach). The secluded nature of the hotel, without close neighbors, and the well-spaced bungalows enhance the overall experience. I read some reviews mentioning sea flies but we didn’t have any, a few mosquitoes in the late afternoon (sunset time is often mosquito time). We would return in the future for sure.
Some notable restaurants on Koh Mak
Koh Mak is really a small island compared to Koh Chang and Koh Kood, 16 square kilometers only. It’s quite flat with coconut and hevea plantations. There might be only 15 resorts and no bars with music at night, it’s as calm as can be.
We had book motorbikes to rent at the resort directly, and as often in small islands, it’s the best way to go around. Even if the island is small walking everywhere, particularly at night, would be a pain. Absolutely nobody wears helmets, the motorbike renters don’t even have any. You just drive slowly and enjoy the breeze. I would drive with my 5 years old daughter in front and wife behind without any issue.
I find it funny that the only serious seafood restaurant on the island is called Koh Mak Seafood. The food is super fresh and tasty and it’s set on a fisherman jetty with a great view on the sea. You can watch eagles hunt fish with the jungle backdrop. The price is reasonable for seafood, particularly on an island. We came back a second time during our trip. Beware it closes at 9pm.
A small bar nearby our resort I visited a couple of times, and an impressive hip bar on a wooden pier on the North of the island. I can also mention Food Art Hut, the main Western restaurant, good for breakfasts and they have some vegetarian options. The few digital nomads that live there seem to go there a lot. Ball café had really good coffee and cakes.
This sea-view restaurant, operated by a friendly Thai family, offers a super laid-back atmosphere. It may not have any flashy frills, but it’s an excellent spot to leisurely savor a refreshing fruit shake or a cold beer. The restaurant is perched on rocks, nestled amidst mangrove trees extending out of the sea, creating a unique setting.
A bar in the Cococape high end resort, really an hidden gem as it’s located on the outer part of a long wooden pier, you have a great lookout to the north and Koh Chang from there. You can plunge directly into the sea. The bar exudes a trendy and hip ambiance with electronic music that attracts a predominantly youthful crowd. Here, you’ll find people sipping on cocktails and dancing to the backdrop of a mesmerizing sunset. It’s almost as if you’ve stumbled upon a jet-set atmosphere in the middle of nowhere.
Points of Interest
