When I embarked on the journey of creating this blog, I made a conscious decision to delve into the past in reverse chronological order. Here we are, now at the close of 2023, and the “Thailand Travel Adventures” that I intend to chronicle will encompass both upcoming journeys and those from the past. To clarify, my recent visit to Koh Phangan after nearly a decade forms the focus of this article. However, I also resided on the island for over a year, and those experiences will find their way into articles I plan to initiate down the road, as I aim to unveil the “trips” of the past ten years in an orderly fashion.
Koh Phangan is an island in the Gulf of Thailand, often associated with Koh Samui and Koh Tao, it’s in the middle between both. It is an island of diverse allure. Its reputation is often closely tied to the renowned Full Moon Party, a monthly celebration that draws revelers from around the world. Yet, Koh Phangan is more than just a party destination. It’s not easy to reach, I visited the island with a friend and we took the easiest path,flying from Bangkok to Koh Samui, then the catamaran to Tong Sala. The Lomprayah catamarans already brought back some memories, still the same old – modern – boats.
10 years after, did it change?
When I made the decision to live in Thailand, I found myself on Koh Phangan, an island I had previously visited for nearly a week during my initial trip to Thailand. Like many young guys, our initial draw to the island was the Full Moon Party, which, in the end, occurs just once a month and doesn’t fully represent what this island truly is and has to offer, tranquil beaches, natural scenery. Having spent over a year living there, I had gained a good understanding of the island, so returning after such a long time away made me curious about the changes it might have undergone.
Did it change? To some extent, but not dramatically, and the alterations leaned more towards the positive than the negative. I had concerns that Koh Phangan might have evolved into something resembling Koh Samui, with more buildings, increased concrete, and wider roads, but that wasn’t the case. I found it to be only subtly different, with a few new resorts and restaurants here and there.
Back to Plai Laem
I wanted to stay around where I used to live, but the place has closed during Covid, so I checked for resorts on the same Plai Laem beach and found the Sea Scene Resort, a very modest resort but one of the only beachfront place that still had room, as it was Songkran week (water festival week, which is off in Thailand). Actually we got lucky because we wanted to stay 4 nights and the resort as a 4 nights minimum rule.
Haad Plai Laem can be found on the west coast, north of the main town Thongsala, it stands out as one of the most stunning beaches on Koh Phangan, owing to its distinctive rock formations, both small and large, but the waters remain relatively shallow as the reef lies approximately 100 meters from the shoreline in this area. Not the best to swim honestly, but the view is awesome. Also it’s very quiet as the road is a few hundreds meters away.
This budget-friendly beach bungalow resort offers air-conditioned accommodations, with most rooms providing at least partial sea views, making it excellent value for your stay. There’s no pool, but it’s right on the beach. The resort boasts a pleasant restaurant that also acts as lobby, the usual Thai fare and breakfasts are good. Situated just a short drive north of Thong Sala, Koh Phangan’s main town and arrival point for boats, it provides a convenient location. The nightly rate is 1,000 THB, but there’s a minimum booking requirement of four nights usually, it’s a laid back resort that hasn’t changed for ages. Additionally, there’s a spacious beachfront bungalow option ideal for families, offering great value for the experience.
From the resort, we could walk to the beach bars I used to hang out in. Of course the beach didn’t change a bit, apart from the fact a 5 star resort now replaces what used to be a very basic wooden bungalows resort. As for the bars we visited, they both were completely redone, which is to expect as structures tend to deteriorate quickly when facing the sea. Siam Cookies Cottage is the first resort I ever stayed in in Koh Phangan, it used to be cheap but has be renovated into a more upscale version of what it used to be, with a pool now. The bar/restaurant is still ideally located on the seafront, but it lost a bit of its magic. It’s not a backpackers place anymore but family oriented.
The Chocolate Bar is now called Sunset Treehouse Bar, it’s still around the same great old tree but has been completely redone in wood. It’s a very nice place to hangout. I used to visit regularly a Thai rasta guy that ran the place, he would put some great music (dub and trip hop mostly) and he was the spirit of the place. He’s not of this world anymore, I got the news from the current barman who still works there.
A bar built in wood around a large tree, with different levels of wooded terraces, amazing sea views, especially for sunset, good vibe.
The best way to stroll around the island : on motorbike
As it was back then, and as is typical on most Thai islands, the ideal way to explore Koh Phangan is with a motorbike. We rented directly in Thong Sala on arrival. The usual route from Thong Sala is basically to follow the coastline North, passing through the lengthy Hing Kong beach and its bay with very shallow water, then you got Srithanu, a lively village, then the hill roads and great views over Haad Yao (“large beach”) and Haad Salad, all of which offer excellent swimming opportunities. Further along is the Koh Ma area, a small island connected to the main island by a sandbank, making for a very photogenic spot. Finally, you reach Chaloklum, a picturesque fishing village. This is solely the northwestern part of the island, which, in my view, is the most enchanting.
The Full Moon Party is not here at all as it’s completely to the South in Haad Rin. There’s also another area in the island on the North East called Thong Nai Pan, which can’t be accessed from the North West, it’s also very nice, with 2 large bays. It’s where you find some of the island’s most upscale accommodations.
One activity I’ve always enjoyed and that my friend and I wholeheartedly embraced was driving the narrow dirt roads crisscrossing the heart of the island, under coconut coves or in swamp zones. I was thrilled to rediscover those familiar, pristine natural hideaways I held dear, like the one in the photo below:
Snorkeling spots on the way
One of my favorite spot is still Koh Raham, which is not really an island (“koh” means island in Thai) but some large rocks which have been transformed into a restaurant. One of the best places to spend an afternoon, drinking fruit shakes or coffee, doing a bit of snorkelling,
Returning to this place after a decade, I found the same charming pirate restaurant perched on expansive rocks by the sea. The décor, still adorned with a plethora of items collected from the sea after the storm like driftwood, dried coconuts, and fishing nets, has retained its rustic allure. It’s an integral part of Haad Son Resort, the bar is accessed through the resort premises and is conveniently situated next to the “secret beach” though it has grown more lavish and spacious over the years. They built new areas and notably, it now offers a high-quality coffee experience with a top-notch Italian coffee machine and European style cakes. Shaded by lush trees, the bar features a sandy path leading through multiple sections, some with wooden terraces. The final section culminates in a platform built on rocks that extends into the sea. This last section doubles as a snorkelling spot, with steps leading down directly to deep water with coral and tropical fish.
Another great spot for snorkeling and in general for the beach is Koh Mah. In this case, it’s a real island (“horse island”).
Koh Ma is a small wild island linked to the mainland by a slender beach strip, approximately 15 meters wide, which is submerged and revealed with the ebb and flow of the tide. It can be visited by foot and the best snorkelling spots are reached from Koh Mah directly. The expansive beach opposite the island is adorned with several resorts, some of which are relatively new, upscale, and on the pricey side. What draws visitors to this spot on Koh Phangan is the breathtaking scenery and the opportunity for snorkeling, thanks to the abundance of corals and a rich variety of fish in the waters surrounding the island, making it a sought-after destination.
New restaurants in the lively hub around Srithanu
The Srithanu village was already a trendy spot, but it’s even more popular today, with a growing community of digital nomads making Koh Phangan their home. Previously, it was home to wellness-focused resorts, and now there are even more. Additionally, there are facilities for those interested in yoga teacher training and detox retreats. For instance, the Orion Healing Center, for which I developed the website in the past, continues to thrive and serve its purpose effectively.
A resort on the beachfront which offers yoga retreats, teacher training, detox programs, reiki sessions, and more, all supporting self-discovery. Our beachfront cafe serves high-quality vegan and raw dishes.
Furthermore, we stumbled upon a number of new dining establishments offering a wide array of cuisines, with a particular emphasis on health-conscious options – a refreshing change from the relative scarcity of such choices in the past.
A Mexican restaurant bearing the same name as the renowned one on Koh Chang, with the same proprietors. While the one on Koh Chang is one of Thailand’s finest Mexican, this establishment is more modest in scale but boasts equally delectable cuisine. The added charm is dining on the rooftop terrace with captivating sea views. Margaritas are recommended!
Very closely, we found a new beach restaurant/club with quite a hype. There were hundreds of shoes in front as the place is show-free.
This trendy spot opened by French guys, while reminiscent of the party atmosphere in Samui with evening beachside fire shows, exudes a more laid-back ambiance. Catering to a more upscale crowd, we opted for cocktails only, although the cuisine appeared to be elegantly crafted. Live music featuring a fusion of electronic loops and traditional instruments perfectly complements the overall vibe.
Some party too, of course
We also met some friends while there and went to a jungle party, the Summer Sound Festival, electronic music on various stages in the middle of the island forest. We had a first stop at Amsterdam bar before that.
It was and still is one of the best bars in Koh Phangan, with a breath taking view. While the journey to reach it involves a steep ascent, the reward is a panoramic vista of the island’s west coast, making it an ideal location for watching sunsets. Historically, the bar was renowned as a hub for acquiring weed (hence its name, reminiscent of Amsterdam coffee shops). With the legalization of the substance, it continues to serve this purpose.
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